Thursday, April 2, 2009

Best. Designer. Ever.

Martin Margiela.  Makes me swoon and makes my brain explode.  I've loved him for years, as much as one can love an anonymous designer.  His clothes, his philosophy, his concepts: can I just BE him, please?
When my husband and I were in Antwerp last fall, ModeMuseum was presenting an exhibition to celebrate 20 years of Maison Martin Margiela, and I was so excited to see it.  Karl's mood was, um, resigned impatience?  But after about two minutes he was pulling me around - "Do you see this?"  "Check out this jacket!"  Such is the power...

 I honestly walked around in a daze for hours, just so overwhelmed by the sheer intensity of all that genius in one place.  I was literally weak in the knees and having heart palpitations.  How dorky, hey?  But maybe I understand religious rapture a little better now.

I don't want to bore you with all of my pictures, but I had to share some of my favorites.  The captions are as they appear in the program.
13.  Spring-Summer 1997 - Sleeveless jacket in raw linen, inspired by the covering of a dress maker's mannequin.  Thanks to the stiffness of the linen, the jacket keeps the original shape of them dummy while it is being worn.

22. Trompe-l'oeil - The 1996 Spring-Summer collection was made up of printed articles of clothing with a very simple cut and produced in fine, flowing fabrics.  Each piece is printed with a photograph of another garment, of which both the cut and the material differ strongly from the skirt, jacket or dress on which the photograph has been printed.

22. Autumn-Winter 2001-2002 - Velvet pressed on a jacket in such a way that a Print of buttons, collar and pockets is created in the velvet.

16. XXXL (Autumn-Winter 2000-2001)  Enlarged leather jacket, size 78.  Enlarged white dinner jacket with satin collar, sloping shoulders and pink powder puff.

Artisanal Collection 4. Spring-Summer 2008 - A plaiting of elastic bands creates a jacket.  Various widths and qualities of elastics are plaited directly on the dummy to make a jacket.  The different types of elastics brings a particular colour to each garment.  Production time: 29 hours

Artisanal Collection 10. Spring-Summer 2008 - Vintage buttons are embroidered on a silk chiffon to create a bit-mapped effect motif.  The front is embroidered with various buttons of mother-of-pearl, metal, plastic to draw a mouth.  Production time: 25 hours

A Doll's Wardrobe 12, Autumn-Winter 1994-1995 - Cardigan knitted in oversize gauge with large snap closures hidden behind faux button front.

I couldn't find the descriptions of the accessories, but this is a recycled fur wig.  Nice, isn't it?