Martin Margiela. Makes me swoon and makes my brain explode. I've loved him for years, as much as one can love an anonymous designer. His clothes, his philosophy, his concepts: can I just BE him, please?
When my husband and I were in Antwerp last fall, ModeMuseum was presenting an exhibition to celebrate 20 years of Maison Martin Margiela, and I was so excited to see it. Karl's mood was, um, resigned impatience? But after about two minutes he was pulling me around - "Do you see this?" "Check out this jacket!" Such is the power...
I honestly walked around in a daze for hours, just so overwhelmed by the sheer intensity of all that genius in one place. I was literally weak in the knees and having heart palpitations. How dorky, hey? But maybe I understand religious rapture a little better now.
I don't want to bore you with all of my pictures, but I had to share some of my favorites. The captions are as they appear in the program.
13. Spring-Summer 1997 - Sleeveless jacket in raw linen, inspired by the covering of a dress maker's mannequin. Thanks to the stiffness of the linen, the jacket keeps the original shape of them dummy while it is being worn.
22. Trompe-l'oeil - The 1996 Spring-Summer collection was made up of printed articles of clothing with a very simple cut and produced in fine, flowing fabrics. Each piece is printed with a photograph of another garment, of which both the cut and the material differ strongly from the skirt, jacket or dress on which the photograph has been printed.
22. Autumn-Winter 2001-2002 - Velvet pressed on a jacket in such a way that a Print of buttons, collar and pockets is created in the velvet.
16. XXXL (Autumn-Winter 2000-2001) Enlarged leather jacket, size 78. Enlarged white dinner jacket with satin collar, sloping shoulders and pink powder puff.
Artisanal Collection 4. Spring-Summer 2008 - A plaiting of elastic bands creates a jacket. Various widths and qualities of elastics are plaited directly on the dummy to make a jacket. The different types of elastics brings a particular colour to each garment. Production time: 29 hours
Artisanal Collection 10. Spring-Summer 2008 - Vintage buttons are embroidered on a silk chiffon to create a bit-mapped effect motif. The front is embroidered with various buttons of mother-of-pearl, metal, plastic to draw a mouth. Production time: 25 hours
A Doll's Wardrobe 12, Autumn-Winter 1994-1995 - Cardigan knitted in oversize gauge with large snap closures hidden behind faux button front.
I couldn't find the descriptions of the accessories, but this is a recycled fur wig. Nice, isn't it?